Why Montpellier: Finding Our City in Southern France

The Moment We Knew

Choosing where to build a new life is both thrilling and overwhelming. We researched dozens of French cities, watched countless YouTube walking tours, read forums, compared costs of living, and studied maps until our eyes blurred. Nice, Marseille, Lyon, Toulouse, Aix-en-Provence, each had something compelling. But somewhere in the middle of all that research, Montpellier appeared on our screen, and something shifted.

It wasn't one dramatic moment. It was quieter than that. We were watching a video tour of the city when Lelaine turned to me and said, "I really love this place. Even just watching it." That sentence…simple as it was, stuck with me. Because I felt it too.

Montpellier had everything we were looking for, but more than that, it had something we couldn't quite name. A feeling. A pull. The more we learned, the more certain we became: this wasn't just another city on our list. This was home.

Andras: Why This City Called to Me

When I think about what drew me to Montpellier, it comes down to balance. Not too small, not too large; about 300,000 people, which means it has energy and culture without the chaos of a place like Paris. I've lived in big cities and small towns across America, and I know what works for us. Montpellier felt just right.

The practical things mattered too. The city has an excellent public transportation system, which is crucial since we won't have a car. Trams, buses, bike lanes; you can reach almost anything you need. And then there's the Mediterranean, only about eight or nine miles away. Over 300 days of sunshine a year. Coming from the Pacific Northwest, where gray skies settle in for months, that alone was enough to make me pay attention.

But what really captured me were the videos of the city itself. The architecture, the big open plazas, the way light falls on old stone buildings. I'd watch these tours and think, I want to be there right now. It wasn't just pretty, it felt alive. A younger, vibrant population mixed with history and tradition. An active art scene. Craft communities. Places where I could continue my pottery work and maybe even find others who share that passion.

There was also a sense of possibility. Montpellier isn't trying to be Paris or Nice. It has its own identity, and I liked that. It felt like a place where we could build something real without constantly comparing ourselves to some idealized version of France.

I'll be honest, I initially imagined we might settle somewhere a little more "chill." But then we had one of those miserable Washington days. Cold, damp, the kind of weather that seeps into your bones. I looked at Lelaine and said, "I want more sunshine. If it's hot, I'll deal with it. Better to be hot than cold." That sealed it for me. Montpellier offered warmth, access to the sea, and a rhythm of life that felt right.

We've narrowed our apartment search to a few neighborhoods: Port Marianne, Antigone, Beaux-Arts, Boutonnet. Each has its own character. Some are close to the university, others more residential, one with a bohemian, artsy vibe. Whichever we end up in, I know it'll be an adventure. Our agent Valerie will help us navigate the options when we arrive in the spring, but for now, I'm picturing a place with a small balcony or garden; nothing fancy, just a little outdoor space to make it feel like ours.

Lelaine: The City That Felt Like Home Before I'd Ever Been

I've never been to Europe. For me, this isn't just about moving cities, it’s about stepping into a world I've only imagined. So when we started researching where to go, I wasn't just looking at practical details. I was searching for a feeling.

We watched so many videos; city tours, neighborhood walks, market days, café scenes. But when Montpellier appeared, something clicked. I couldn't stop watching. No matter how many other cities we explored, I kept coming back to Montpellier. Maybe it was the energy I saw in people's faces, the mix of young students and older locals, the sense that this was a place where I could belong. Or maybe it was simpler than that, it’s just fun to say out loud. Montpellier. It rolls off the tongue like poetry.

But beyond that, Montpellier checked every box I didn't even know I had. I needed to be near the ocean, not just want it, need it. I'm sure I drove Andras a little crazy with how often I said, "We have to be close to salt air and water." I think he finally understands he's marrying a true mermaid. Montpellier is so close to the Mediterranean, and I can already imagine cycling to the beach with a packed lunch in my bike basket, feeling the sun on my skin, hearing the waves and seagulls while I smell the salty sea air..

The climate was also critical for me. I have rheumatoid arthritis, and cold, damp weather is brutal on my body. I knew the north of France wasn't an option. I love the changing seasons, but I also know I can visit the snow for a weekend if I miss it. What I can't do is spend months chilled to my bones. Montpellier's Mediterranean climate; warm, sunny, with mild winters, felt like a gift.

And then there's the life I imagine building there. Montpellier is a city, which means there are things to do, places to teach, cultural events, and an incredible infrastructure for getting around Europe. But it's not overwhelming. It's vibrant without being frantic. When I watched videos of the city, I didn't just see beautiful streets and markets, I saw people. A mix of ages, backgrounds, energy. I saw myself there, building friendships, becoming a regular at a local café, attending opera performances and plays, immersing myself in the kind of life I've dreamed about.

I also love that Montpellier has strong teaching opportunities. After I finish my master's degree and get my TEFL certification, I'll be ready to work. I know the wages will be much lower than what I'd make in the U.S., but the trade-off is worth it. French culture values work-life balance in a way that feels almost radical compared to what I'm used to. I want to participate fully in that culture, not just observe it from the outside.

When Andras and I talk about our future apartment, I picture a balcony where I can sit with my coffee and a book, maybe even focus on my writing again. I'd love at least two bedrooms so family and friends can visit, and eventually, when my grandson is old enough, he can spend summers with us. The idea of showing him this new world we're building fills me with so much joy.

The Life We're Building

Neither of us can quite predict what daily life will look like once we're there. We have dreams and plans, but we also know that reality will surprise us. Still, there are things we already know we want.

We'll buy bicycles and ride to the beach as often as we can. We'll explore the markets, those legendary French markets filled with fresh produce, cheese, bread, flowers, maybe even pottery supplies. We've been fantasizing about wandering through stands, discovering new ingredients, and bringing them home to cook together.

We want to become regulars somewhere; a café where we're greeted by name, a bakery where they know our order, a neighborhood restaurant where we can linger over dinner. We want to build community, and we know that will take time. We're okay with that.

Evenings might mean cooking with vegetables and cheese we picked up at the market, or meeting new friends for wine and conversation. Lelaine is already dreaming of attending the opera and local music performances. I'm imagining quiet dinners at home and long walks through lit streets. Both sound perfect.

We also know this move means stepping into a culture that's not our own, and we want to do it with respect and intention. We're not just looking to meet other expats, we want to integrate, to learn French well enough to truly communicate, to build meaningful friendships with locals. It won't happen overnight, but we're committed.

What We're Leaving Behind

Right now, we're living through the Pacific Northwest's shift into its gray, rainy season. The landscape here is beautiful; evergreen forests, the Olympic Mountains in the distance, Puget Sound stretching out like glass on calm days. During the summer months, there's nowhere I'd rather be. But winter is hard. The cold, the damp, the darkness, it weighs on both of us.

This is also the place where Lelaine raised her children, where she knows every familiar face in town, where her family and closest friends live. Leaving that behind isn't easy. She's wrestled with it more than anyone knows; sleepless nights, quiet doubts, the question of how you leave your aging mother, your children just starting their lives, a brand-new grandson.

But this isn't about running away. It's about finally choosing something she's wanted for most of her adult life. Her family and friends understand. They know our door will always be open for visits, that we'll come home when we can, that we'll stay connected through video calls and messages. Still, saying goodbye will be one of the hardest parts of this journey.

Looking Ahead

Montpellier is still waiting for us across the ocean, but it already feels like ours. We've spent so many hours imagining ourselves there, walking its streets, shopping its markets, sitting in its cafés, watching the light change over the Mediterranean. We've studied its neighborhoods, researched its tram lines, pictured where we might live.

Soon, those images won't just be on a screen. They'll be our daily reality. And while we know there will be challenges; language barriers, cultural adjustments, moments of frustration, we also know we're ready.

This is the city we chose. And soon, it will be the city that chooses us back.